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WINTER: Equine water intake decreases in winter, and the incidence of
impaction colic skyrockets—so encourage your horse to drink at every opportunity. Break the ice in his bucket or trough
several times a day, use a stock-tank heater, or offer lukewarm water (about 45-50 degrees F) to increase his desire to take
in a lot of liquid. Click here for more on winter feeding.
Horses generate heat when they digest roughage, so to help your horse maintain his internal temperature, offer him free-choice
hay rather than increasing his grain ration. Keep a close eye on your horse's weight throughout the winter, too, especially
if he's in his teens or twenties or has dental issues.
HERE ARE SOME TIPS ON HELPING TO KEEP YOU HORSES SAFE IN THESE HOT TEMPS WE ARE HAVING.....
------Provide ample fresh, clean water. Check daily that buckets or troughs are not contaminated with bird droppings,
insect larvae, chaff, or algae growth. Try to keep the water cool. Horses may not want to drink warm water. Ponies and foals
may have trouble reaching to the bottom of a shallowly filled trough. Make sure everyone in your paddocks can reach the water.
------Consider using electrolytes (A PRODUCT CALLED "THE JUG" WORKS REALLY WELL) if your
horse is sweating hard, such as when the combined humidity and air temperature exceeds 104 degrees Fahrenheit or your horse
will be working hard (a long trail ride or competition). Electrolytes replace salts lost in sweating. They are similar to
human sport drinks. You can put electrolytes in the horse’s feed, or use a large-ended syringe to squirt into the mouth.
Use electrolytes made for horses. Electrolytes made for other livestock may be unsuitable.
------Make sure there is a place for your horse to avoid the sun, either a building or a shade tree.
------Apply zinc oxide cream to horses with pink noses to prevent and treat sunburn.
------Mid to late summer weather often means that grass growth slows down and pasture quality declines. Make sure your
horse is getting enough fodder and consider supplementing with hay if necessary. Horses need energy to stay warm and cool.
Adjust your feed mixture if your horse begins to lose condition in hot weather.
------ sponge cold water over your horse, especially down the large blood vessels under the belly and neck
and inside the legs. In extreme heat, spray a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alcohol and cold water over his body to aid sweating
-------cool your horse while he rests in the barn with appropriate stable fans. If possible, leave barn
doors and windows open and install misting fans near each stall. Choose a run-in shed with an open-end design to promote airflow.
FLY SEASON IS HERE :-( There are several
ways to help control the fly population and generally you have to use a combination of methods to have any success at the
contol of the little pesty things. I will list a few that has helped me help my horses.
1. fly masks
2. fly spray (oil based seems to work the best and last the longest)
3. feed thru fly control (any kind that will stop the cycle)
4. fly preditors also helps to control the population (is what I have been told)
5. I also have found that feeding garlic to my horses in the powder forms made
for animals helps stop the fly's from biting and also helps stop ticks from infesting my horses. If the springs are wet
ticks seem to be plentiful and no one likes or wants ticks all over their horses.
6. Of course pasture maintenance is always a big plus... keeping the poo cleaned
up does wonders in fly control.
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR MISSION TO CONTROL FLY'S the horses will love you for
helping them be rid of the pests that not only are bothersom but also hurt when they bite.......
TIE YOUR HORSES CORRECTLY
| This horse is tied up securely and safely. It is tied with a good quality halter and lead rope
and the halter fits the horse well. The rope is tied at about the same height as the horse's back. It is tied to a secure
post using a quick release knot that can be jerked free if the tail of the rope is pulled on. Also, the horse is tied long enough it can adjust its head
position and/or bite at flies, but short enough it cannot get a leg over the rope. |
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- Tie your horse at a safe height. A good rule of thumb is to tie a horse so that the rope is tied at about the same height
as the horse's back. You can safely tie a horse higher than this, just be sure to allow the horse enough slack that it can
hang its head at a natural level. However, if you tie a horse lower than this you are asking for serious trouble. Tying a
horse too low will allow a horse to get a leg over the rope, or its head stuck underneath the rope.
- Tie a horse long enough that it can be comfortable, but not so long that the rope droops down and the horse can step over
it.
- Tying a horse excessively long is very dangerous. Not only can they get a leg over the rope, if the rope is long enough
they can run a few steps if they spook and jerk themselves down. Sadly, we have seen this happen.
- Do not tie with the bridle or the bridle reins. Instead, use a good
quality, properly fitting halter and a lead rope.
- Tie your horse to something that will not poke or hurt its face and eyes if it should jump forward.
- Strange horses should always be tied with enough distance between each other that they cannot bite or kick one another.
Horses that know each other and that do not fight can be tied a little closer together, but should always be tied so that
they cannot bite each other or the tack the other horse is wearing.
- If you cannot tie your horse to something appropriately sturdy, tie it up to something that is intentionally designed
to break. For example, you can tie a piece of string or twine around a lightweight fence post then tie the horse to the string
or twine. This way, if the horse breaks free at least you got to decide what it was that was broken (the string or twine instead
of the post).
VERY IMPORTANT IN THE HEAT OF THE SUMMER WE ALWAYS
MAKE SURE OUR HORSES HAVE PLENTY OF FRESH WATER AND A PLACE
TO GET OUT OF THE SUN IF THEY WANT TOO....AND IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT FOR THEM TO HAVE A WHITE SALT
BLOCK OR A MINERAL BLOCK OR EVEN LOSE SALT IS GOOD (THAT IS MADE FOR ANIMALS)....DURING HOT TIMES HORSES SWEAT
OUT MANY MINERALS WITH SALT INCLUDED, SO THEY NEED TO HAVE FREE ACCESS TO SALT THAT THEY CAN LICK ON ANYTIME THEY WANT...THEY
WILL NOT EAT TO MUCH SALT ONLY WHAT THEY NEED......
HORSE NEED PLENTY OF WATER TO HELP KEEP THIER BODY TEMPATURES DOWN AND TO KEEP THEM HYDRATED
DURING THE DOG DAYS OF SUMMER....AND BOY HAVE WE BEEN HAVE JUST THAT :-(( ANYWAYS IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE GREEN ALGAE
OUT OF THE WATER TANKS AS WELL, SO ONE SHOULD CLEAN THEM ATLEAST ONCE A WEEK . HORSES NEED A SOURCE OF FRESH WATER SUPPLY AT ALL TIMES.......PLEASE
TAKE CARE OF ALL YOUR ANIMALS IN THESE EXTREME TEMPS ...........
Today's tip: What should you do if your horse won't move?
Many times our horses just don't want to move
or step over something. This may actually be two different problems. In one case, they may be belligerent
or just not wanting to go forward. If this is the case, then make them work... an easy way to do this is to move
him in a circle.
The idea is to keep him moving. Rein him to one side, turn a circle and come back to
the same spot and have him go forward. Keep doing this until he gets the idea.
If your horse won't step over
something or cross over he may be spooked or unsure. If he wants to stop and smell it and examine it, let him.
This is natural for him.
Your goal is to build trust in him and you do that over time.
Trying to force
him, punishing him, etc. is exactly the WRONG thing to do. If you try to force him then what you'll end up doing is
having him associate pain with this object and he'll remember that.
Do that a few times and you'll build a bad habit for sure!
Once again, try taking him in a circle and then head for the object again.
Do that a few times until he'll step over. Once he does decide to cross, be careful - he may try to jump or race over.
If that's the case, take him back over it again, and again until he learns it's note going to hurt him.
Give him praise
each time he does it right. Build a positive experience and he'll remember that next time you ask him to do the same
thing.
I found this on the web so you might try this instead of buying the
expensive fly sprays out there.
CAUTION - Use any fly spray
recipe on this page at your own risk.
I am in no way suggesting that the recipe below are safe for you or your
horse. Homemade Horse Fly Spray Recipe
Ingredients
- 2 cups white vinegar
- 1 Tablespoon Eucalyptus oil
- 1 cup water
Instructions
Mix the ingredients together in a spray
bottle. Shake well before every use and spray the horse.
Colic-
Horse can colic any time of the year it is very important not to
let your horses drink to much water after a long ride. YES they can have some water and is best to let them drink water out
on the trail when you come to streams to help keep them hydrated. But any time you let them over do it there is a chance of
colic. So try to be aware of how much your horses are drinking and don't let them over do it. It is also a good idea to
have some electrolites with you just incase of an emergency they will help hydrate a horse the fastest if the situation should
arise. Better to be safe then sorry is the way I look at it....There is even a home made mix that is supposed to work just
like the electrolites that you buy in stores. I have not tried it but sounds like it would work. You can
create your own electrolyte supplement by mixing a tablespoon each of ordinary table salt and "lite" salt (a mix of sodium
chloride and potassium chloride, available at larger supermarkets) in a few tablespoons of applesauce. AND USE A LARGER SYRINGE
TO ADMINISTER THIS MIXTURE TO YOUR HORSE AFTER A LONG RIDE ON A HOT SUMMER DAY OR IF THERE IS ANY SIGNS OF DEHYDRATION.
Vaccinations-Spring is a good time to vaccinate
The American Association of Equine Practitioners (aaep.org) recommends that every
horse in the USA be vaccinated annually against Tetanus, Eastern and Western encephalitis, West Nile, and rabies (core vaccines).
Of course if you are unsure of what vaccine to use it is always best to consult your veternarian. Also if you are unsure how
to administer a vaccination have your veternarian do them. It is much cheaper to vaccinate your horses now then later on have
a disease that cost lots of money to cure or is life threating to your horse. Please take the time to keep your horses healthy.....
FARRIER NEEDS- USUALLY EVERY SIX TO EIGHT
WEEKS
You shoud have your horses feet trimmed every six to eight weeks or by the recommendations
of your farrier, this helps keep your horses feet well shaped and healthy. We have to many lame horses out there so please
take care of their feet. Here is something that has been thought to be a fact by many even me, but as I was reading the other
day found out the the real deal on this issue. Do shoes year round hurt horses feet? FALSE....This myth comes from when horses
worked many hours a day and needed to be shod every four weeks or so. They never had much hoof growth so time off from shoes
was need to allow the hoof to grow so that there was some healthy hoof to hold the shoe on. Now another thought to keeping
shoes on all year is with shoes on the horses in the winter months they do get more compacted snow built up in their feet
which is a problem in itself and very hard to get it out sometimes. I personally keep shoes on one of my horses all year
round because she has bad feet and gets absesses really easy if she does not have shoes on. It cost over 100 dollars to have
the vet open the absess and then 2-4 weeks locked up in a stall and lots of work changing bandages etc., so shoes all
year is the best way for her. Her feet look GREAT with no other problems.
WORMING-HAVING YOUR
HORSES ON A ROTATIONAL GUIDE REGIMENT IS THE BEST WAY TO COMBAT THE PESTS...THE RECOMENDED ROTATION IS
JAN/FEB- PYRANTEL
MARCH/APRIL- FENBENDAZOLE OR OXIBEDAZOLE
MAY/JUNE- IVERMECTIN OR PRAZIQUANTEL
JULY/AUGUST- PYRANTEL
SEPT/OCTOBER-IVERMECTIN OR PRAZIQUANTEL
NOV/DEC-FENBENDAZOLE
every two or three months is how often you should use a wormer
on your horses......
Seasonal Feeding
Special considerations for your horse's diet throughout the four seasons.
By Karen Briggs
Although your horse appreciates consistency in his daily rations, the changing seasons do affect how you feed him. Here
are some considerations for his diet all through the year:
SPRING: Be careful when turning your horse out on pasture after a winter season
of hay—that rich spring grass can be a shock to his system. To avoid triggering a case of colic or laminitis, reintroduce
your horse to spring grazing slowly, gradually increasing the time he spends on pasture over two to three weeks. Horses that
have previously foundered, or ponies (always prone to the condition) may have to be restricted from spring grazing entirely
or fitted with grazing muzzles.
SUMMER: Heat and humidity can take their toll on both horses and riders. To
ensure your horse is cooling himself effectively, provide constant access to clean, fresh water as well as loose or block
salt. High-performance horses that sweat profusely may benefit from being offered electrolytes—but check the labels
carefully; some commercial electrolyte preparations can be mostly sugar and coloring. Choose a product which lists sodium,
chloride and potassium as the first few ingredients, and avoid those which list sucrose, glucose, dextrose, fructose or other
sugars above the salt content. You can create your own electrolyte supplement by mixing a tablespoon each of ordinary table
salt and "lite" salt (a mix of sodium chloride and potassium chloride, available at larger supermarkets) in a few tablespoons
of applesauce.
FALL: Prepare your horse to weather winter by making sure he's in good flesh
now. If he's a little ribby, gradually increase the amount of fiber in his diet, by offering more hay and/or other roughage
sources (such as soaked beet pulp), throughout the day. Remember that if he's on pasture, the nutritional value of the grazing
plummets as the temperatures drop and the days grow shorter, so make sure his diet is nutritionally complete by feeding only
good-quality hay, not more than a year old (vitamins in hay deteriorate over time), plus a commercial brand balanced grain
ration if he needs more dietary energy. A broad-spectrum vitamin/mineral supplement can also be helpful through the fall and
winter seasons. Click here for more information on fall grazing.
WINTER: Equine water intake decreases in winter, and the incidence of impaction
colic skyrockets—so encourage your horse to drink at every opportunity. Break the ice in his bucket or trough several
times a day, use a stock-tank heater, or offer lukewarm water (about 45-50 degrees F) to increase his desire to take in a
lot of liquid. Click here for more on winter feeding.
Horses generate heat when they digest roughage, so to help your horse maintain his internal temperature, offer him free-choice
hay rather than increasing his grain ration. Keep a close eye on your horse's weight throughout the winter, too, especially
if he's in his teens or twenties or has dental issues.
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